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| 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=23803 |
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| Author: | segovia [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
http://bluescreekguitars.com/blog/ Hi - Excuse my ignorance but can you explain this process to a newbie like me. John |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
I cant totally explain Johns method .. I dont understand why he doesnt just radius the whole thing ... I do, and it works fine for me. If Johns method works for John, well ... then it works for John. Its just different from how I do it. Serge DeJonge and Laskin/Larrivee use a totally different method, and geometry ... but they get it to work for them. The 28 foot radius on the whole top gives you the 1/16 or so of clearance at the bridge area you are looking for. The angle the top makes with the sides at the neck joint is really irrelevant (although its pretty close usually to 1.5 or so degrees) .. I simply make it (cut the neck heel) such that the heel will sit flat on the body, and the FB extension sits flat on the top. for me, its that simple. The lie of the whole FB is now flat, no hump (I level, radius and fret the FB after attaching the neck in the white). |
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| Author: | bluescreek [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
I use the method I do because the 3 separate areas actually create stiffness buy the shape. I can also control the bridge height best this way. I like to create the flat angled area for the fretboard , the area between the sound hole to the bridge is flat , and the lower area having the true radius. Check out the vids and feel free to contact me with any questions Video link http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... ues+creek+ john |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
Do you use a flat UTB John ?? .. that would explain some about why you do what you do - I dont, mine is 28 ft radius. FYI - Laskin and Larrivee use a flat rim, but the top's upper bout (bridge to neck) is radiused, the lower bout (behind the bridge) is braced flat .... at least they used to do it that way. |
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| Author: | Terence Kennedy [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:18 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
Have you found the need to flatten the upper bout beneath the fretboard Tony? Terry |
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| Author: | bluescreek [ Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
I use the flat side of the disk. I do flatten the upper as martin uses a flat brace here also. That is just the way I learned. I found that using the radius can make the control a bit more difficult of hitting the numbers I want for a straight transition john |
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| Author: | Hupaand [ Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:17 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
It seems to me that if the bottom of the fretboard extension is flat, then the board it sits on has to be flat, too. Or is the 28' radius flat enough not to be noticed? |
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| Author: | Arnt Rian [ Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
Not to answer for Tony, but I do this procedure exactly as he describes and yes, I do flatten the area where the fingerboard will rest on the soundboard. The amount of wood that has to be romoved for this is very small, however. |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:13 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
Yes, flatten the top area .. like mentioned its about 4-5 thou only ... Rick Cowan (a newer OLFer) set the neck on his build in the shop last night. The lie of the unfretted FB, still yet truly levelled and radiused, was almost perfectly sitting on top of my .345 "tester" bridge. The neck needs a bit more back set, which will get it perfectly lined up. It took about 20 seconds to flatten the top Fb area, longer to get the neck pitch almost right while flossing the fit. Rick was also working on getting the FB to drop down to a certain spot on the rosette, so a little bit of carving was required on the heel's upper portion to do that. We still have a bit of centreline work to touch up, but the inserts and bolts went in, and its looking good. |
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| Author: | segovia [ Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
bluescreek wrote: I use the method I do because the 3 separate areas actually create stiffness buy the shape. I can also control the bridge height best this way. I like to create the flat angled area for the fretboard , the area between the sound hole to the bridge is flat , and the lower area having the true radius. Check out the vids and feel free to contact me with any questions Video link http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... ues+creek+ john Hi John A few questions If the back is tapered does the sanding disk sit flush with the sides, I am assuming you need some play between the disk and the guide/pole to allow it to settle naturally. What dictates the position of the disk guide/pole can you confirm that you put a radius along the x-y axis and then flatten it the lower bout if the sanding disk has a radius then if you turn it thru 360 degrees wont that put a radius from side to side how do you make the radius disk ? Thanks John |
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| Author: | segovia [ Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 14th fret hump and danding the upper bout |
bluescreek wrote: I use the method I do because the 3 separate areas actually create stiffness buy the shape. I can also control the bridge height best this way. I like to create the flat angled area for the fretboard , the area between the sound hole to the bridge is flat , and the lower area having the true radius. Check out the vids and feel free to contact me with any questions Video link http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... ues+creek+ john Hi John A few questions If the back is tapered does the sanding disk sit flush with the sides, I am assuming you need some play between the disk and the guide/pole to allow it to settle naturally. What dictates the position of the disk guide/pole can you confirm that you put a radius along the x-y axis and then flatten it the lower bout if the sanding disk has a radius then if you turn it thru 360 degrees wont that put a radius from side to side how do you make the radius disk ? Thanks John |
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