Official Luthiers Forum!

I just bought an older model Perfomax 16 32 drum sander. I am guessing it was before Jet took them over as it is the metal color and not the pinted Jet color. I got it for $300 including three large rolls of Performax sanding rolls in 80, 150, and 220 grits. I also got the red handle to change the paper with. After looking at the ends of the roller I am not certain if I need to use the red handle to put the paper on with or not. I can get my fingers in the sides and push the clip in. Well at least on the outboard side but I did not try it on the inboard side.

So my first questioning is whether most people are using the tuf tool to change the sandpaper? The second question is with the grits of paper that came with it, most likely enought for my use for some time, are these grits what I would use for sanding the top, back and sides? My planer will take the wood down to 1/8 inches. I was thinking I could then put the pieces through the drum sander and reduce it down to the thickness I want for my pieces and then using the 150 and the 220 sand it pretty smooth. I am sure there will still be some hand sanding and scraping to do but since I am just beginning this guitar building experience I thought it best to ask those of you that have been building for some time.

Thanks for any thought you have,

Chuck

The little tool takes some practice to get it right. I can usually get the paper on using my finger. The inboard side is critical for getting the paper on right. When you slide the paper in, the clip needs to be under tension so it will take up any slack in the paper. If you don't get it right, the paper will come off the drum when you turn the motor on.

I usually use just the 80 grit paper. I could use the finer grits, but I prefer to do my final sanding after the bindings are on. The trick to using the drum sander is to take many light passes until you get to your final thickness. Don't try to take off too much wood in one pass.

_________________
53% of all statistics are made up on the spot
http://driftwoodguitars.blogspot.com/

I have the Jet, and tried to use the red thing at first, but found it more trouble than using my hand. I use 80 and 150 on tops, and 50, 80 and 150 on backs and sides. I use the 50 grit only if the material is really thick. I keep it a little on the thick side for hand sanding after the box is together. Trick is to learn when to switch to the next finer grit and to take many small passes to carefully work down to the thickness you are looking for. Try lots of scrap till you get the hang of it, and watch out for too heavy a pass with oily wood...you'll ruin a belt in one pass and also gouge the wood.
I have had some success cleaning a burnt and loaded belt with a file card and soaking the belt in water. Don't forget to scrape your glue joints or you'll be picking glue off your belts.

I've also got a Jet sander. I didn't like the "red thing" at first, but after I either figured out how to use it, or got used to it, it's the cat's meow. If you stick it on correctly it will hold the paper tight while you get the spring loaded clip right. I was trying to use it, and having trouble, when I finally threw it across the shop. My Wife picked it up, and read the manual. Then she showed me how to use it. Again, for me the "red thing" works great, but not at first.

_________________
I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I use the red tool also.

I am not a big fan of the precut paper since it is SO more expensive than cutting your own off of a roll. Just keep the original as a template. Klingspor sells some really nice stuff in bulk rolls. 80 grit is all I use. Changing out grits is too much trouble... better to have two machines I think.

Remember, go easy. 1/4 turn per pass. And do several passes at each turn. It's not at all like a planer. Sugar woods (Maple, eg) can burn, so go even lighter. It's a balance between proper conveyer speed and thickness adjustment. My conveyor speed is normally 60. A little faster for sugar woods.

Mike

I didn't like the red handle at first but persisted in learning it, then it actually made the process simpler. That said however, I have since converted to using the Grizzly Hook & Loop (H&L) conversion on it and I'll never go back. There is a bit of a learning curve with the H&L but once you've got it down it's awesome. I no longer have a problem with paper clogging, which with oily wood was especially a problem. And I can change the paper in a flash. The drum on this unit is already designed to run fairly cool but runs even cooler now and I can sand down even the thinnest of veneers. Like Mike said the rolls that you cut yourself are far more cost efficient especially if you buy specifically from a discount abrasives supplier (not the Performax or Jet brand). Enjoy your new sander, it's a time saver for sure.

_________________
Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

Where is the conversion for H&L? I see the rolls in the Grizzly catalog, but where do you get the drum conversion?

Howdy Haans,

You can find that here. It will take a little effort and modification of the kit but it works perfectly on my Performax 16-32 which is the same as the JET 16-32.

_________________
Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

found it easier not to use the loading tool to load the paper but that is just me. I had better luck just getting my fingers in there to hole the spring latch open till I got the paper in properly. the inside latch has a spring action to it that help tention the paper.

NOw iconverted mine to velcro and it is much simpler. that said because of the padding affect that velcro creates it is important to understand tht you can not hog off material. you should not be hogging material off regardless but if you convert to a velcro system it is more critical to take light cuts.

I use 80 grit for general sizing but I use 100 grit for plate thicnessing. there is no need to go finner in my opinion at plate thicknessing as you will need to prep sand after the guitar is assembled prioir to finishing anyway.

Thanks Bill, Michael! Can you give a little idea of how the velcro attaches? Any overheating/melting hooks problems? I was wondering about the sponginess of H&L, but sounds like it works...

the hook portions is sticky back and goes directly on the drum. the paper is the loop. i set mine up to wrap as normal and I still use the spring clamps at the end just to keep from having ends that could peel away. like I said earlier you want to take small cuts. keep your feed rate up a bit. I have had no heat build up issues but i knew to take thin cuts to begin with so I just have never had a problem. If anything intuition tels me I have less heat build up due to the air space between the paper and the drum.

The hook portion is self adhesive. Like Michael said you will have to take lighter cuts but if you have a good thickness planer, you can get it close and then finish off with the sander. I have a thickness planer but rarely use it since I resaw my own stock. I resaw fairly close to the thickness I want then finish thicknessing it with the sander. I have never had an over heating problem with the H&L and in fact have found it to run cooler. Thus no melting, no oily gum up, or clogging of the paper. I have yet to replace the paper since I converted other than to change grits but the paper lasts many times longer. That combined with saved time, I am saving a lot of money on my sanding operation.

_________________
Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

Looks like Michael and I were posting about the same time. Howdy Michael!

_________________
Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

Chuck, the Stockroom has a conversion kit in different widths.

http://www.stockroomsupply.com/prices/VCDchartc.php#CR

_________________
Aoibeann

beat ya bill

Yup! I done gone went n got myself beat1

_________________
Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

Thanks guys! Guess I'll "burn" through the rest of the Klingspoor I have and then give it a try.

One additional note on the conveyor belt. When I first got my sander, I set it on the bench and then turned the conveyor on. Bad move. There is a plastic packing spacer between the drum and the conveyor. Took no time at all to destry the belt.

Well, I priced a new belt from Jet. $40. Then I went to Klingspor. $19. Choice was easy... but...

The Klingspor belt was only made of paper. The Jet belt is made of cloth. The Klingspor belt did not last long at all. Most folks I have spoken to about this say their original cloth belt is still on after years of use. I just recieved my cloth belt from circlesaw.com (in a Performax box, genuine equipment).

The lesson is, do not buy the cheapo Klingspor belt. Their sanding paper is excellent, however!

I may try the H&L method, especially when I get to that maple I have... thanks for the tips.

Mike

Thanks for all the help. I got my questions answered and some additional information that will be helpful.

The paper that came with the drum sander is in long rolls and I have to cut it to size. It must get used for more than one sander because on the back side of the paper there are black and red lines for different sander so that you know where to cut it for the correct sander.

As I said in the beginning post I have three grits. I am betting I have enough paper for some time. Once it is all gone I think I will get the hook and loop as it sounds like it would be much easier to change out.

Again thank for your help,
Chuck