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| Author: | ChuckG [ Thu May 07, 2009 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Scorched Monkey Pod |
I scorched one of the sides of this Monkey Pod OM while bending and I'm planning to try to stain the rest of the guitar such that it all blends together. I haven't tried this before so any advice would be much appreciated. Are there any other remedies to scorched wood besides staining? Attachment: 100_1124.JPG Thanks, Chuck |
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| Author: | Glenn LaSalle [ Thu May 07, 2009 3:57 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Hi Chuck, Sorry, I do not have an answer, but I have some monkey pod that I was going to use, and was wondering what temps you bent with (did you use fix style bender?). Thx! Glenn |
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| Author: | Randolph [ Thu May 07, 2009 4:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Have you tried scraping the scorched side to see how deep it goes? |
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| Author: | Zach Ehley [ Thu May 07, 2009 4:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
you could try scraping away at the section that will be removed for the end graph to test how deep it goes. |
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| Author: | Barry Daniels [ Fri May 08, 2009 9:48 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Chuck, in regards to staining, the most controllable way is to add a little toner to your finish and build it up slowly so you don't overshoot the color and end up with too much, which requires you to strip and start over. Trans tint or analine dyes (probably a little red-brown by the looks in the photo) in very thinned out lacquer would be my approach. Spray this mostly on the non-scorched side but put a little on the scorched side too, to help even everything out. And don't forget the back. Good luck! |
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| Author: | ChuckG [ Fri May 08, 2009 10:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Glenn, This was a mistake on my part. I use a Fox style bender and I'm usually VERY cautious about watching the temp. I begin the bend on most woods at about 220F and then bring the temp up to around 300F for about 10 minutes. On this one side I got distracted and let the temp creep up to about 320F even though I have a router control that I use for a temp control. I was surprised that it scorched that easily (his is my first go at Monkey Pod). Obviously I was more focused on the other side As you can see from the photo, I have already routed the binding rabbets and I got way more burning that I ever do with any other wood so I would advise you to be careful with it. Barry, Thanks for the advice. I know you're in The Woodlands (we met at the lunch thing last July. I was the one who couldn't make it to your shop.) Maybe before I do the finishing - about a week away - I could bring it over for you to look at. I have scraps to practice on... |
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| Author: | wbergman [ Fri May 08, 2009 10:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
It doesn't look too bad, so I agree with the others to try scraping first. |
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| Author: | Barry Daniels [ Fri May 08, 2009 10:32 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Chuck. I would be glad to look at it for you. I've got lots of dyes too if you need any. |
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| Author: | David Newton [ Fri May 08, 2009 11:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Chuck, they don't look too bad, but when I want to stain mahogany dark (lots of light mahogany now days) I use oil stain with paste wood filler over unsealed wood, so the wood takes as much stain as possible. If the binding is rosewood or dark plastic, all the better. If the binding is maple, sealing is necessary, and scraping after tinted finish, before clear finish. |
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| Author: | Barry Daniels [ Fri May 08, 2009 12:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
David, I do the same thing. Chuck, I would recommend that you do a seal coat on the body, fill the pores as desribed above, and then seal that. Then bring it to my shop. This way, we will have a better idea of the required tint. |
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| Author: | ChuckG [ Fri May 08, 2009 1:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Barry, My process is to seal with vinyl sealer, fill pores with Zpoxy, sand all but pore fills away, seal again and then lacquer. Should the stain go on after the Zpoxy? The binding will be Ebony. BTW, I tried scraping and sanding without much luck. Thanks, Chuck |
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| Author: | Barry Daniels [ Fri May 08, 2009 3:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
The filler and sealer coats should all be done first. Then I put the toner in the first few coats of lacquer and thin this a LOT so it doesn't build too much thickness. Then scrape the bindings (if necessary) and start shooting clear lacquer. |
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| Author: | MRS [ Fri May 08, 2009 3:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
I would attempt to sand it first before trying any stains or dyes. |
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| Author: | gozierdt [ Fri May 08, 2009 6:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Chuck, Where do you measure your temperature? I've accidently taken Koa and Maple to over 425 F with no scorching. It could be just these woods are not as oily, but it sure looks to me like that side saw way over 320 degrees. I measure with a digital food-type probe that I insert between the wood and the blanket (stack is steel slat/moist paper wrapped wood/blanket/steel slat). |
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| Author: | Hesh [ Fri May 08, 2009 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Chuck buddy Jeff Yong has probably bent more monkey pod than anyone on the planet. His Monkey Pod guitars have won blind listening tests at guitar shows. He is also a great guy and a dear friend. I am sure that he would help you out if you email him. I don't want to post his email but you can contact him through his web site here: http://www.gimmusic.com/ Tell Jeff that Hesh sent ya. |
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| Author: | ChuckG [ Sat May 09, 2009 9:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Gene, I also use the digital temprature probe (Wal-Mart) and I use two blankets and two spring steel slats for bending (I learned this method from the John Mayes "Side Bending" video - thanks John). My "sandwich" is a blanket, a slat, the wood (misted lightly) inside brown kraft paper, a slat, and the other blanket. The temp probe is inserted between the top blanket and the top slat. I have checked the probe in a pan of boiling water (I'm at 210 feet above sea level near Houston) and it shows 211.7 degrees at a full boil so it is accurate. I control both blankets from a single 15 amp router control and I know that at a given setting one blanket is a little hotter than the other. After this incident, I labeled one of the blankets and did a lot of testing so that I now orient the blankets such that I get the most consistent temprature between the blankets as I can and that I'm always measuring the temprature of the hotter blanket. Hesh, Thanks for the link. I'll certainly contact Jeff as I really like the Monkey Pod. Glad to see you back posting again. Barry, I'll PM you when I'm ready to bring the body over. Thanks to all for the help. Chuck |
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| Author: | Rod True [ Sat May 09, 2009 2:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Scorched Monkey Pod |
Chuck if you are using ebony for the bindings, will you also use ebony for the tail wedge? That picture doesn't show much scorching IMO and if you have a dark line between the two, I think you'll have (well, most would have) a very difficult time noticing any variance in the coloring of the wood. Just make the wedge a little bit wider and my guess is that the little bit of color variance will hardly be noticeable. Nice thing is, you can do this now, before any worry of finishing. |
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