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Hi Filippo, yes, the Joe Woodworker instructions are the way to go. I got my 16-32 dialed in to within a mil using this method.
Do the mod to the adjustment knob - lose the springs and add some nyloc nuts. Good luck!

Cheers,
Dave F.

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Cambrian Guitars

"There goes Mister Tic-Tac out the back with some bric-brac from the knick-knack rack"

Filippo,
Pardon me if I am not getting what you are doing, but are you running your test piece in length wise ? .
If so the adjustment on the sander doesn't have anything to do with the leading edge or trailing edge. The adjustment is side to side. The leading edge and tailing edge are the most misleading places to measure. If you take a big bite the difference between the leading edge and the middle of the borad and the trailing edge will be greater. If you continue to run the board through with out making any more depth adjustments things will even out but there will always be a little dip on the leading edge and trailing edge. As I said I may be misunderstanding your test procedure.
Link

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

I'm hoping this will work with a 10-20. I have one on the way and should be here next week.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I have a 22-44 and have never even tested the accuracy (although .030" is a lot). For thin stock, you need to use a sled anyway so I just run the sled through then put the work on top of it. Good to within a couple thousandths across the width.

They are fairly solid machines but all open ended sanders have flex. That makes them hard to really dial in. If you do it by measuring with the machine off, the outside of the arm will flex up when sanding. A sled is pretty foolproof.

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