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| Author: | Randolph [ Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Tight bend on maple |
I am getting ready to bind the a headstock with roughly .062 square maple. There are two tight bends that are somewhere between the size of a nickle and a dime. What recommendations do you have? How can I best keep the grain from peeling up on the outside of the bend? My plan is to use a pipe to bend it on. The fretboard and the body will be bound with curly maple. Is it too much to ask to use figured grain on that tight of a bend? |
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| Author: | Laurent Brondel [ Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight bend on maple |
You may have to break a few pieces, but those are short and easily replaceable. I wouldn't wet curly maple too much. I use a soldering iron and a wet paper towel laid on it to do those tight bends for the hand stops. Unless you have the Ibex and mando extension rod… |
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| Author: | Brock Poling [ Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:05 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight bend on maple |
use a backer. I have a little piece of flexible metal (think metal side slat) with two wood blocks screwed into the ends to hold onto. That helps a lot. you can also use a damp cloth over your pipe to help even out the heat. I have found that helps too, and helps with scorching. I actually have pretty good luck with maple. Obviously the thinner you make it the easier it is to bend. |
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| Author: | Randolph [ Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Tight bend on maple |
Thanks Brock. Laurent says to use minimal moisture directly on the wood. Do you find this to be true also? Is the rag enough by itself? |
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