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Nut glueing http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=20935 |
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Author: | Mark Groza [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 10:44 am ] |
Post subject: | Nut glueing |
Do you glue in a bone nut and if you do what glue do you use? I know a properly fitted nut doesn't need glue, but for those that do glue,what do you use on bone? |
Author: | Kent Chasson [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 10:57 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Frank Ford recommends a tiny drop of super glue wicked in after the nut is in place. All you want is to keep it from falling out when the strings are off. For guitars I build, I get better intonation if I remove about .008" from the bass side of the fingerboard. This makes for a slight wedge shaped nut that is easier to make a good friction fit with. Nothing worse than too much glue on your nuts.... |
Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 10:58 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Two small drops of Titebond ... |
Author: | Hesh [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:38 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Two small drops of Elmer's goo. I agree on the friction fit and try to make my nuts.... snap into place. |
Author: | Colin S [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:46 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Never glued one in, if it fits, it fits. Do you glue the saddle in, no, so why the nut. Colin |
Author: | Hesh [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 2:09 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Colin my friend the drop of glue is added insurance for when someone, other than us, attempts a string change and depending on the methodology, or lack of same, may loosen or slide the nut to one side. I agree with you that a well fitted nut really does not need to have a drop of glue on it in a perfect world but my world is unfortunately not very perfect. ![]() |
Author: | Mark Groza [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
As Tony said, I'll have to use titebond on it .There isn't a channel to wedge it in and the nut bottom is level with the bottom of the board.There's no overlay on the headstock to help hold it either.Think Gibson J-45. Same as mine except where they used mahogany, i used ash neck and body both. |
Author: | Howard Klepper [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 7:32 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
two drops of CA. And--this is important--on the side of the nut facing the board. This avoids tearing wood out when you knock it loose to change it. |
Author: | LuthierSupplier [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:06 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Howard Klepper wrote: two drops of CA. And--this is important--on the side of the nut facing the board. This avoids tearing wood out when you knock it loose to change it. I do the same, but with one small drop of medium viscosity CA. Glue the front of the nut to the end of the fretboard. I made the mistake of using Titebond on the bottom of the nut channel and when I removed my nut, I had a lot of cleanup to do later. The front of the nut offered a much easier cleanup. |
Author: | Darrin D Oilar [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:31 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Howard Klepper wrote: two drops of CA. And--this is important--on the side of the nut facing the board. This avoids tearing wood out when you knock it loose to change it. Ok, rookie, nerdy question, but why would you need to change it? Do they wear out? Or is it if you want to change the action? Darrin |
Author: | SniderMike [ Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Howard Klepper wrote: two drops of CA. And--this is important--on the side of the nut facing the board. This avoids tearing wood out when you knock it loose to change it. Amen. |
Author: | Michael Dale Payne [ Mon Feb 09, 2009 12:17 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Darrin D Oilar wrote: Howard Klepper wrote: two drops of CA. And--this is important--on the side of the nut facing the board. This avoids tearing wood out when you knock it loose to change it. Ok, rookie, nerdy question, but why would you need to change it? Do they wear out? Or is it if you want to change the action? Darrin Cange in string gauge could be one reason, change to a higher action could be another and then there could be a refret down the ine requiring a full set-up. Oh and the clinets that think they need to lower the action some more only to find out the don't know what they are doing ![]() |
Author: | Darrin D Oilar [ Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:39 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
Gotcha. Thank you, and thanks for not laughing and pointing at the dumb question guy. I am not much of a player, and a recent builder. I haven't been around guitars my whole life, so nearly all of this is new to me. Thanks again. Darrin |
Author: | Mark Groza [ Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:24 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Nut glueing |
That is a good tip Howard! It's always easier to break loose from the end grain than the side grain on the headstock.Less chance of damage too. |
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