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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:06 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Well technically it's a laminate trimmer, not a router but you know what I mean. :) I bought one of those nifty Bosch Colts a while back. Around the same time I also bought the Stew Mac TrueChannel Binding Jig because when it comes to cutting the rabbet for an archtop's binding I'm scared stiff! I figured any good jig would be a step in the right direction.

Problem is.... my lam trimmer doesn't line up with the holes on the base of the Stew Mac jig. Here's the jig:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_t ... g_Jig.html

They mention that you can "add holes" for trimmers that don't fit the slots provided. How would I go about that? I don't know what kind of metal the jig is made of. What do I just mark it out and drill through it? I'm very inexperienced with power tools and have always preferred their primitive cousins. Anyone have this jig? I'd like to keep the Colt. It would stink to have to buy another lam trimmer for this.
-John


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:29 pm 
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I have that jig and it did not fit my trimmer either. The mounting platform is aluminum and will drill easily with regular drill bits. My mounting hole pattern was not far off so I merely used a round file to expand the slots enough to accept my laminate trimmer. If you are going to drill new holes it is best to mark the centers and then use a punch with a hammer to make a small dimple where you want to drill. This will prevent the drill bit from "skating" around and make things easier. This can all be done with a hand drill and the mount placed in a vise but a drill press will make things more accurate if you have one.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:19 pm 
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Stephen.... Thanks so much for that! I was very unsure of how it would take to drilling. Metallurgically speaking, I've only ever drilled holes in pretty thin sheets of aluminum. I'll use my center punch and work my way up starting with small bits.

So, what are your feelings about the TrueChannel? Have you used it a lot? I haven't heard many user's opinions and I have some pretty high hopes for it. BTW, have you tried it in any cutaway areas? I've been wondering if it can maneuver that. Thanks!
-John


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:26 pm 
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Cocobolo
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archtop wrote:
Stephen.... Thanks so much for that! I was very unsure of how it would take to drilling. Metallurgically speaking, I've only ever drilled holes in pretty thin sheets of aluminum. I'll use my center punch and work my way up starting with small bits.

So, what are your feelings about the TrueChannel? Have you used it a lot? I haven't heard many user's opinions and I have some pretty high hopes for it. BTW, have you tried it in any cutaway areas? I've been wondering if it can maneuver that. Thanks!
-John

You'll have a much harder time drilling a hole in aluminum if you use progressive size bits. A single bit the size of the hole you need will be an easier drilling task. The bit is designed to clear its way through the metal. Aluminum is easy to drill, easier than many hard woods...it doesn't have a grain to cause the bit to move. Take it slowly and clear the filings away with a brush as they can bite.

If you use a small bit then a larger one, it'll grab and make drilling very difficult.

Clamp it to your drillpress, drill the main hole the same size as the others. Then remove the drill bit and put a much larger one in its place to countersink (unless you have a countersink tool) and then slowly open up the countersink for the screw. Unclamp and repeat with the smaller bit then larger bit. I imagine you'll need about a 1/2" bit give or take to make the countersink.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 7:52 pm 
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Thanks for the additional info Joe! I think that I used button head cap screws but now I do not remember. If the screws are flat head then a counter sink is definately needed.

John, You are welcome! Working with aluminum is no sweat! Also, I did not think to mention that you do not need to lubricate the drill as you would with mild steel.

I have used the jig and found it easy, intuitive, and accurate. The instructions are clear and simple. I have not used it on a cutaway, but I cannot imagine it being a problem. I did manage to screw up my heel by routing a binding channel into it so please learn from that cussin accident!(classical guitar with Spanish heel) I just trimmed the heel down to the cut, made an extra thick heel cap, and called it good. Some of the other flaws on the instrument are so glaring you hardly notice the thick heel cap!

The bearning set that came with the bit has quite a bit of grease in each unit. Do some cuts on scrap wood and let the excess lubricant spin out or you will have to sand it off of your sides. (Of course, I did not actually make this mistake...ahem...I'm just sayin)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 8:29 pm 
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I just remembered that Robbie Obrien's penutlimate tip du jour video features this jig! Check it out. The thread is pretty recent.

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