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Well, how old is the CA? It might not be "off". Also, when using CA to fill pores, I like to go back to the wood or if I don't get all the CA off, I will shoot a couple of seal coats of shellac before I go to the lacquer. It seems to work well that way for me.

I don't know why this would have happened other than the possibility that the CA and lacquer were/are not compatible (mind you, many drop fill voids with CA right onto lacquer with no issues).

I would have sprayed 6-8 coats of the nitro first, then level sanded than drop filled with full strength nitro any areas which needed drop filling, instead of the CA. Let that cure for a week, then used a razor blade to scrape level, then shoot another 4-6 coats.

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Similar stuff happened to me (although it was with polyurethane) and that's what I did. Worked fine. I don't see why it wouldn't work with lacquer.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
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I would keep recoating and sanding down with 600 and finer wet sand paper using a cork lined block... It looks like it would eventually flatten out without having to reach rosewood. Seems like some orange peel may be happening too. The tedious part is waiting long enough between coats of nitro and gradually bringing everything down to those low spots. Good luck.

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If the CA areas are proud of the rosette, they wil show for a while because the glue is way harder, and fully cured, as opposed to the softer still curing nitro. I sand the CA back to the wood, no ridges when doing something like this. You shouldnt have any issues putting the nitro over CA, at least I dont.

Personally, I dont use CA to drop fill once I have started finishing .. over time it will always show, as mentioned above, the CA will always be harder and the nitro will shrink around it. Use thickened lacquer (leave some in a jar over a couple days and it wil slowly gas off and get thick ... more solids. It will cure faster then reg lacquer, but I like to leave it for as long as possible before flatsanding and buffing out.

Oh .. when flat sanding the area .. use a hard block, no padding, to get it flat. I like to use small pieces of UHMW plastic for this (and 400 grit w/d paper).

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"