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| Fingerboard gap http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=20207 |
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| Author: | rangerrich [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Fingerboard gap |
When putting together an 0 size 12 fret I missed the fingerboard not sitting flush to the top. It is only on the treble side and only about 1 inch from the neck to the point where the board is glued to the top. It is big enough to slip a business card under the fingerboard. I really don't want to take it apart, it is beyond my skills anyway. What if any problems will this create with the final assembly, bridge and setup? Thanks- Rich |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 11:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
Hmmm .. what is the neck joint - bolts, dovetail ???? If its bolts, then all you need to do is get a heat lamp on the the FB ext, and it will release. then clean up the glue and figure out what is holding the FB up, then reglue it. Obviously a DT is more work, and riskier to get off cleanly. From a going forward as is perspective, you probably wont be able to tell until the string tension is on - its unlikley that it will truely cause any major grief, but the FB may hump a bit right there. How far in does the card slip (or try a thin piece of paper) - if not too far, i would fill the gap with glue and move on. |
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 11:33 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
Are you sure some glue and clamps will not repair it? Mike |
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| Author: | TonyKarol [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
I doubt it Mike - if its already been glued, then the rest of the glued area will hold the gap open - you wont compress dried glue very much if any. You wouldnt want to try to force it - really bad things will happen |
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| Author: | Alexandru Marian [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
To paraphrase something Eugene Clark said about grain filling, you'd be better off if someone stole your clamps at this point. You can easily crack the top if nothing else. You need to clean the area, remove any glue squeezeout from both FB and top, nice up the things, seal with shellac, then make some fine ebony dust and stick it in the gap, without stuffing it in - you need a bit of space for the CA to wick in easily. Then add a few drops of CA. Drop, wait for it to wick in, then again, until the dust is well soaked. Be careful not to make a mess with it on the spruce, hard to clean even if sealed. |
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| Author: | Hesh [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:21 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
Rich welcome to the OLF!
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
TonyKarol wrote: I doubt it Mike - if its already been glued, then the rest of the glued area will hold the gap open - you wont compress dried glue very much if any. You wouldnt want to try to force it - really bad things will happen Oh I get it, there is a glue wedge in there? Did the OP mention the joint type? |
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| Author: | rangerrich [ Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
The joint type is a dovetail. Everything was fitting well so I added a thin shim to tighten it up on the treble side. Then applied glue. I was so busy making sure the fingerboard was centered and the heelcap centered and wiping squeezeout and getting the clamps on correctly. Them patting myself on the back for getting it all good when I noticed the space. Rich |
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| Author: | Mike OMelia [ Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Fingerboard gap |
Gaps happen. Mike |
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