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I just bought this and got it home yesterday. I laid it away about a month ago. I did not notice the crack in the top when I made the purchase. But when I got it home and spent some time with it I notice the crack.

The crack does go through the top and can be pressed back into place. It looks like two cracks here, but the one closest to the edge is the real crack.

How should I go about repairing this crack?

Forgive for asking but are you experienced in building or repair work? Who built the guitar?

If the crack is tight as it appears to be, you can work in some hot hide glue to repair the crack it self. If it does not completely close then the crack needs opened up to except a tapered split of the same wood. Once cured out the splint is scraped flush, then the finish repaired.

If you are not a builder or repair person this is really a job for an experienced luthier.

this is a pretty easy crack to repair as far as crack repairs go.

I have done a few repairs. (removed back, replaced braces, bridge plate repairs and such - this is first crack I've had to repair) I am an experienced wood worker, but am just learning lutherie. I am in the middle of an F5 mandolin project that I think I will put on hold until I've made a guitar or two.

The guitar is a K. Yairi. This model was never retailed in the USA, its an AR332. Seems it was sold in Europe in the early 80's.

OK I belive the Yairi uses nitro for the finish. that nakes athis fairly straight forward. I would do the hot hide glue in the crack. allow the excess to fim up then scrape off. allow the glue to cure over night. sand lightly with 220 the repair the finish.

Thanks, I'll post results.

Michael, were you eating a carmel when you typed that?

Check for loose liners. That kind of crack is likely a result of getting bumped. I might remove a section of liners and replace with oversize ones to back up the crack--judgment call just depending on my sense of it. There may be damage where the additional crack lines appear--looks like some crushed fibers and if so, I'd want to back it up. Yes to the hide glue.

Don't splint--it's not open enough to warrant that. You can drop fill with amber lacquer if you want to level it. If you just want to seal it, you can brush on shellac with a fine brush. I would not let excess hide glue build up as a finish fill. I'd wipe off the excess glue and fill with lacquer afterwards. Then level and polish the lacquer after giving it a few weeks to shrink.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

no working

Thanks for the help. By linings to you mean the kerfed linings? I looked with a mirror, I assume by this that you mean that I need to feel around in there and see if the lining is still tight? It looks fine with a mirror - I can barely see the crack inside. I do agree it looks like a compression because there are more than one grain lines affected.

The binding and side looks fine too. I'll do some more probing. If the lining is cracked or if I do find more damage, how would you go about cutting a section of the lining out? I do have a small flush cutting saw that is flexible and small, but I may have to order a saw. I saw an exacto saw or something like that.

chisel and/or knife. but it may be unnecessary. no evidence of impact on the side or binding?

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.