Official Luthiers Forum!

Right guys I've bent my bindings and now need a quick and simple way of installing them. In my mini arseneal of tools I have a dremel copy with the dremel router base and a large but cheap router my brother has lent me. My binding measuree 9mm by 2mm is there a quick way to do this? Say something that would take under an hour to make and get me on my way?

Also never having done any routing is there a way of working aroung the body to minimise any chances of damaging the top or sides?

Cheers guys

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

Hi John,
you check out the Stew Mac web site to get ideas for binding with a dremel.
With you limited tool arsenal you might consider doing it with a binding/purfling cutter, which you can make.
Why the rush?

_________________
Jim Watts
http://jameswattsguitars.com

You will need the Stewmac adjustable guide bearing and bearing base and a bit slightly bigger in diameter than the width of the cut needed. you will need to do this in stages as the dremel will not have the power needed to cut the channel width in one or two passes. that is where the adjustable guide bearing will come into play. Still see the Stewmac sight for info on how to make this channel with these products, as the top and back are not flat you need a small 2-2 1/2 degree wedge attached to the bottom of the base to keep the Dremel vertical and parallel to the sides so tht your channel is square to the sides.

This is cheaper maybe but is not simpler than a binding routing fixture, binding bit set and body cradel. the dremel will require more cuts and offer less finate control. Because the adjustable guide diameter is smaller than the bit you use you will need t be sure you keep the plane of the cut perpindicular to the line of the bearing and bit assembly as if you get off to the side tangent the cut will be too wide where ever the base gets out of plane with bit and bearing assembly. This is true of any system that uses an adjustable guide bearing and that is not always concentric to the center of the bit. IE any guide system wher the bearing is not part of the bit. If the guide bearing is smaller than the bit and you get out of plane you cut too deep into the top or back. if the guide bearing is larger than the bit then you cut too shallow of a width if you get out of plane.

If your dremel copy has the threaded end on it, Stewmac sells a quality router base and and adjustable guide for cutting bindings. Be forewarned though, if you get it. It will do a pretty good job of cutting the channels for the top, and everything on the back that is below the upper bout. Above that, and the router base will not properly work, due to the curvature in that area. The channel will become more and more shallow as it arrives at the neck joint area. It will also come out shallow in the waist (at least with me it did!).

They also offer a screw on attachment to the dremel, which is adjustable. Once again, be forewarned. If used, one must have a steady enough hand to hold the dremel exactly parallel with the sides at all times, or the channel will come out with variances. It will work, and I have done several guitars with it prior to going over to something more substantial, quicker, and easier (Stewmac setup again, for a laminate trimmer).http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... Guide.html. This may be a better cost/effective option if you are building 1 or 2 guitars

this is what I now use: now. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Speci ... g_Jig.html

Several people have made their own set-ups, and maybe they will reply. Take your time; mistakes always happen fast, and it takes a lot longer to screw up, fix the mistake, and do it again correctly than it does to just take the time to do it right to begin with.......

Carry on!

edit...MP beat me to the draw, and he brings up a bit of what I was trying to say, clearer than I probably was!

_________________
Brad Tucker

The following links show a few ideas.......

Here is a discussion of the problem of using a standard router and base for cutting the channel: http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/understandingbindingchannels.html

And a couple of tools to address the issue that may give you some ideas or you could by the tool if you prefer:

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/bindingmachine.html

http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/BEARINGGUIDEDATTACHMENT.html

_________________
Formerly known as Adaboy.......

I have used the binding machine that you linked to. It's a small router table that uses a laminate trimmer. It worked pretty well. It has a port to hook a shop vac, but even without the shop vac, it doesn't throw dust and chips all over the place like some of the other binding machines.

I have also used the jig that he has for locating the bridge. Made that process very easy.

I too have a very similar router table with the downcut spiral bit and it works great. I can rout for top and back bindings (excluding extra routing for purflings on the top) in about 30 minutes start to finish and get a good rabbet. I have had no problems and love the idea of converting for flush trimming...makes me realize how dumb I am I didn't think of that .

_________________
"We might not be big but we sure are slow"

I did the guitar in my avatar with a dremel and the binding jig StewMac sales. So for a one build you can do it. I just finished building and used a binding machine and cradle. So there you go.

No easy way out then dang

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes

If it were easy everybody would be doing it!....

_________________
Brad Tucker