Working on guitars #4 (walnut/paduk solid body electric) and #5 (Bocote 000).

My previous builds used the Martin-style truss rod which I securely epoxied in place and covered with an epoxied in shim. For the new builds, I am switching to a Allied truss rods that I learned about on this furum. I was planning to epoxy the rod in and cover with a epoxied in shim. I was suprised to see a comment in the LMI catalog that said that most Luthiers do not glue the rod in place.

What is the normal method for mounting this style of rod ?

Glue it in ? (if so, how to protect threads from the glue ?)
Leave in floating and cover with a glued-in shim ?
Leave the rod and the shim floating and just glue the fingerboard ?

thanks,

-jd

For the Allied rod, make the slot .400 inches deep. Put the rod in dry and epoxy a filler strip to the back of the rod and the sides of the slot. Clamp it down lightly to remove space but not so tightly that is makes the rod hard to turn. After the glue is dry, plane the filler off so that it is flush with the neck shaft.

Mark

For the Allied rod, make the slot .400 inches deep. Put the rod in dry and epoxy a filler strip to the back of the rod and the sides of the slot. Clamp it down lightly to remove space but not so tightly that is makes the rod hard to turn. After the glue is dry, plane the filler off so that it is flush with the neck shaft.

I'm with Mark G on this one. Are we talking about the dual action trussrod that LMI sells (and Allied) with the flat barstock on top, which bears on the fingerboard? I cut my channel just deep enough to allow the flat part of the rod to sit flush with the top plane of the neck. Although, I do install them where the adjustment sits flush with the block when viewed from inside the guitar. The flat part of the rod bears directly on the fingerboard. I've yet to have any problems; of course I don't have any 20 year old guitars out there either.

Now, if I were to use a longer rod, and extend it through the upper transverse, I would consider going deeper in order to allow the access hole in the UTB to be drilled in its center if need be.

just my de-valued .02 cents.

For the Allied rod, make the slot .400 inches deep. Put the rod in dry and epoxy a filler strip to the back of the rod and the sides of the slot. Clamp it down lightly to remove space but not so tightly that is makes the rod hard to turn. After the glue is dry, plane the filler off so that it is flush with the neck shaft.

Mark

How close to the nut is the end of the rod when installed your way? I like to keep them 1/2" away. Are yours any closer than that to get it away from the transverse brace for adjustment room?

It probably ends up somewhere in that area, Mark. I like to have it close to the end of the fingerboard on that end, but not too close. The adjustment (allen head) usually comes out about flush with the neck block if viewed from the inside of the box, give or take. I have tried flush, slightly recessed, and slightly protruding (1/16" or so). They make for a little more difficulty in adjusting because you have to reach into the soundhole, but I don't like the support block under the fingerboard extension, so this is how I do it for people who don't like the adjustment at the peghead, which I personally prefer, because it makes adjustment much easier. I use the LMI dual action trussrod. I don't recall LMI saying anything about using shims, gluing wood to the sides of the slot, etc. I just cut my slot deep and wide enough to accept the rod.

If you don't shim the LMI or Allied rod better at least use caulk in the channel or be prepared for a phone call from some customer about a rattle.
Terry