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Yup, I have heard the horror stories. I stand forwarned. I was just wondering what one would use one for in guitar building? I have read how they can be like router tables (only not quite the high RPM, but with more torque... thus making them more dangerous than a router table).

So tell me more. Also, if you had to make a choice between a router table and a shaper (assuming they were the same price) what would you do?

Mike

I have both a shaper and a router, although I'm far from an expert on the shaper. But here are my thoughts for what they are worth.

Let's assume you have a shaper cutter and a router bit that both cut the same profile. The shaper cutter will usually be much larger in diameter (even though it cuts the same profile), and as a result, the cutter blade will approach the cut at a different angle than the equivalent router bit. The difference in angle, speed, etc. result in a much cleaner cut. It also results in higher torque, as you note, which means that if the cutter catches the wood, it will throw the workpiece with much more force than a router bit.

The shaper's clean cut is very valuable when you are making long runs of moldings, cabinet doors, siding, etc., because it saves a huge amount of sanding. And the danger of throwing the wood can be reduced significantly in these applications by using a power feeder.

On the other hand, when you are using a template to shape a guitar headstock, the shaper's benefits go out the window. The large cutter is a curse rather than a blessing, because you can't get into convex curves as easily. And if the router's cut isn't clean enough to go to the finish room without sanding, it's no big deal, because there's not that much to sand. Also, freehand template routing on a shaper is very dangerous if the workpiece catches and goes flying through the wall (or worse yet, through you) at a high velocity.

Bottom line, I think routers are better suited for building a guitar, but shapers are great for a lot of other things.

That is kind of what I thought. I was somewhat surprised to find that some shapers accept router bits... this is what caused me to ask the question.

Mike

Used one at Bourgeois for braces (radius on bottom, shaping the scallop, making peaks, whole thing top and back) then only had to lightly sand clean, glue and put in vacuum press. Used one at Mayes for shaping neck shaft (looked scarier than was). Have one, but took it to Moll's because I don't have floor space. I like them for some things and not any more dangerous in my opinion than any other power tool. Be alert and do things in order, and keep distractions out probably won't have a problem. Some tools I use less of so not get complacent in use, as might with ones use every day

I have and use both (see my pictorial on neck making with a Shelix cutter in pictorial/video section of this website). For pattern work a major difference is the the ability to reverse the spindle rotation on the shaper. For my neck making operations I have a router table and the shaper running in opposite directions depending on which way the grain is oriented.
If I had to choose just one for guitarmaking I would go with the set up I've got- 3.5 hp variable speed router and a precision router table lift. Spend the extra money for spiral cutters wherever possible.
As for router bits in the shaper, with the exception of very large diameter cutters that require slower speeds, it works, but you'll get a better cut with a router running at higher speed.
For continuous runs (moulding, etc), as already said, the shaper with a power feed is the best bet.
-C

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