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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 7:33 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Heath
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at what point do you cut the mortise in a neck block for a mortise and tenon style joint? before you glue it to the sides? before the box is closed? or after? for those of you who cut before you glue to the sides, have you had any alignment issues?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:20 pm 
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Koa
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I've only done one, but am getting close to this point on my 2nd and I route it after the box is closed up.

I'm sure you'll get a handful of people that do it different ways so it's really a matter of personal preference.

Blain

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 8:42 pm 
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I rout it after the box is closed with this jig.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 9:18 pm 
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I’ve always done it after the box is closed up. This way it will ensure that mortise is where it should be and is perpendicular to body. If you do it prior to closing the box, you run the risk of the mortise being out of alignment and you’ll have a heck of a time getting the neck and fingerboard to seat properly. This not to say that it can’t be done, I just think it’s easier.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:47 am 
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I rout after the box is closed up and before I rout the neck tenon.

I use the Woolson neck tenon jig. This jig actually sets the neck angle based upon the measured body geometry that already exists. It's one of my favorites and I thank Paul for making it available and for Michael for providing the excellent drawings. I believe the drawings are available for purchase...see Lance.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 8:59 am 
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Mahogany
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Well, seems like you ought to get at leaast ONE alternative reply. :D

I do it prior to closing the box...while I'm machining the block for truss rod clearances (my truss rod adjustment is in the box obviously?). I also do the neck tenon at the same time so I have a good idea of the fit and tolerances before moving on. I have an admitted personal prejudice about having lots of jigs, so this is one less I need.

As stated previously. Either works, try them and choose what feels best for you.

Joe
Edited for spelling...and because we can now! ;)


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:05 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I cut mine when I make the neck block. When I first started I made a jig to hold it in the same Fox/Woolson device I use for the neck tenon. Now I just attach it centered on the template with a couple of screws and rout the mortise. Drill the bolt holes on the centerline with another jig and put the radius on it.
I have a centerline marked on my mold and line up the neck and heel blocks on that line and of course the junction of the sides. I always make sure to center the mortise rather than the block. It's worked fine for me so far. Doing it after the body is complete should work great too.
Terry

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:15 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian
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I do it when I build the block. To insure proper alignment to the centerline of the guitar I have alignment stops attached to a piece of MDF that my assembly mold pins to during rim glue up. These are just squared pieces of 3/4 ply that are glued to the MDF and have two dowel pins each that go in to matching locator holes in the piece of MDf that the assembly mold sets on. The blocks are carefully glued at the joint and dowels and ate reinforced with 2 x 2 x 3/4 triangular gussets to prevent racking. These blocks align the neck block vertical and parallel to the centerline of the guitar if there is the occasional vertical misalignment it is easily handled by shim and sanding to the tenon and are never over 1/64-1/32 at the most and 99% of the time the blocks glue up dead square providing I did a good job of squaring the the block in the first place.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 9:25 pm 
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I also cut the mortice when I make the block.... no need for a fancy jig that way. I rough it out on the table saw and then make a final pass on my router table. I cut it all the way through and later plug up the end with a little block.

I seem to have a jig making phobia these days.
I'll do almost anything to avoid having to make another jig !!!

Mark


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:21 am 
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I do it after the box is closed up. I have a little plywood form that I double stick carpet tape to the body and route it out. Easy.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:37 am 
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I notice there's at least one reply which talks about doing the mortise when they're making the block. Has anyone here ever tried cutting the mortise using mortising chisels?

Paralell to learning about luthierie I've been teaching myself more general carpentry using hand tools, and mortising chisels are what springs to mind when I think about a half-blind mortise. (although, giving it more thought about the grain orientation of most neck-blocks using a mortising chisel might not be such a great idea after all) Just curious really...

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 8:14 am 
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if I recall correctly Paul Davis (Patriot guitars) does his block first and has a slick add on to his body form
to keep it all lined up. Its a temporary tennon. It fits 1/2 in the body mold dead on center and 1/2 the neck block
mortise. Holds everything nice and straight as you glue on the top and back.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:37 pm 
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Koa
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First name: Heath
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well, i was away for a bit, but thanks for all of the replies. since ive already glued this one in, im stuck with cutting the mortise later... or maybe a butt joint. im with you mark, not a phobia, im just sick of making jigs right now and wanted to get started actually building a guitar. ive actually gotten a little hasty in my impatience to get started. ive just been thinking about it for so long i need to put my hand to doing some actual work. so headblock glued in, no mortise yet.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:30 pm 
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Lance Kragenbrink wrote:
if I recall correctly Paul Davis (Patriot guitars) does his block first and has a slick add on to his body form
to keep it all lined up. Its a temporary tennon. It fits 1/2 in the body mold dead on center and 1/2 the neck block
mortise. Holds everything nice and straight as you glue on the top and back.


I believe Mark Swanson also does it like that. I use the table saw, no jigs required.

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