Official Luthiers Forum!

I think you must realize that toothing blades are used for two different tasks. The fine toothing irons sold by the better tool houses like Lee Valley & Lie Nielsen are intended for planing wild grain in wood such as walnut burls and plainsawn rosewood. In this case, the toothed blade will remove a sparse but even layer of wood fibers that can then be smoothed with a regular blade.

Cumpiano/Natelson suggests using a blade scored with triangular saw file for marking every other pass as an aid to seeing where you have passed before. Then you can go back with a regular iron for a second pass, avoiding planing the same path twice, which makes it possible to evenly thickness a wide plate. It also will reduce the tendency to tear out.

There's no reason to buy an expensive fine toothed blade just to make a scratch pattern! Good luck.

I have been working on sharpening my iron, one problem I noticed was the back of the iron is flat, but the front of the iron is not. After trying to fix this by hand and having a tough time along with the bevel losing shape, I ordered a bench grinder and a coarse grit water stone by norton.

My board is similar to the one in the video, but it does not taper

I will take a look at the sharpening video, thanks Todd

Thanks Filippo

My bench grinder arrived today

It was immediately apparent that a dressing rod is needed, I should be able grind the bevel freehand with the tool rest I think, then I will create the micro bevel on my 240 grit water stone freehand

I searched for quite a while, but did not find any tips or guides on honing plane irons on a bench grinder

Bench grinders: Dangerous things, mainly to the Plane blade but sometimes to the user as well. The only thing I would use one for is to take out bad nicks in a blade otherwise for sharpening they certainly aren't necessary.
A coarse oil stone is good enough. You don't need to get the bevel flat. It doesn't really matter if this is convex. What matters is the angle right at the tip/edge of the blade. That edge or the very tip needs to be done with a fine stone. Either an Arkansas, very fine wet/dry or 6,000/8,000 waterstone. You can strop as well. No need for honing guides. Better to learn without them IMO.
Here's one method. I don't use this method but I'm sure it works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvTcReENk9g

I seem to be going round in circles trying to sharpen this plane iron

Tried different methods, grinder, sandpaper, waterstones

In my latest attempt, I got a straight, fairly even bevel, started lapping the back via the rule trick and now the edge is no longer straight

I am now thinking of buying a lie nielson, veritas or hock iron as this 1950's blade is not being taken great care of

What do you want a straight edge for? Why are using the ruler trick.? Stop trying to get even bevels, perfectly straight edges. Just get a sharp edge. That's all that matters. Unless your '50's blade has lost it's temper or seriously pitted there's nothing wrong with it. You'll have exactly the same problem with new blades.

I have done as you said Michael, it seems very sharp now

The spruce was warped last night so I have been straightening it hopefully will get it back on the shooting board by tomorrow

Thanks Michael, I became pedantic about the sharpening process. It will take time for me to learn to sharpen to the standards of experienced luthiers.

I am still trying to flatten my wood without luck

Is it necessary for the plates to be flat for jointing?

Use an old Tormek wet grind wheel when necessary and it really is an excellent tool then a diamond plate, have finished with a Japanese wet stone. After the wet stone blades look really shiny but i'm not convinced they are much sharper than they left the diamond plate. Probably pilot/operator error.

Steve

I managed to get the top to pass candling and the plates are being glued together now

The shavings were less than 0.05mm, the minimum measurement on my calipers

thanks all