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John Killin
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Well I think I have the neck joint issue under control. Thanks for the tips. I ended up fitting the dowel and using epoxy as glue. I got the hanger bolts installed. Now I just need to drill the holes in the body to accept it. I see a jig involved there. gaah

I plan to use these bolt caps instead of the basic hardware nuts and washers.

Attachment:
Neck Bolts and Nuts.jpg


I think they will have a decent look from inside the guitar. It will be pretty much how it would have looked if I had done the mortise tenon joint with the barrel nuts. Are there any issues with these holding?


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woody b
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 4:56 pm 
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I counter sink the holes, and cover the nuts up with a label..........but I like those "bolt caps". Where do you get them?

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John Killin
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 5:40 pm 
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I picked these up at Ace Hardware. But I have seen them at Home Depot and Lowes too. They are in with the furniture hardware.

Bolt Caps is what they are called on the Lee Valley site.
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Darrel Friesen
PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2012 6:00 pm 
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I've used those caps on my last 3 or 4. They work well. I got them at Home Depot.
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Ken Franklin
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 1:14 am 
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The problem I see with the bolt caps is that the hole in the heel block has to be bigger. Probably more slop unless you step drill it.

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John Killin
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:07 am 
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The bolt caps I have fit into a 23/64” hole. For alignment issues\adjustments I was thinking I should bump this up slightly, but am not sure how much. Right now I’m thinking 3/8”. I don’t want to oversize it needlessly, but on the other hand I don’t want to make the tolerance so tight I cause issues down the road.
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Darrel Friesen
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:54 am 
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For what it's worth, I step drill the hole for the cap nuts to 3/8" for these. It works for me.
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Ken Franklin
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 9:21 am 
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Todd Stock wrote:
Alignment is more critical, but they take up less depth than washer and nut.


That's why I like Woody's solution of countersinking it better. Less depth, easier to align.

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murrmac
PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 3:48 pm 
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Why countersink or counterbore at all?

What could be sexier than two stainless steel domenuts standing proud of the neck-block? With a suitably sized washer, of course ...
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Pmaj7
PostPosted: Wed Mar 28, 2012 5:29 pm 
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Is the butt joint relieved in the center like a M&T, so that you only have to fit the edges?

When using hanger bolts, does the joint have to be perfectly fitted first? (seems like it would be difficult to measure the neck angle etc. without having the neck fastened) Do they come out easily?

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