Official Luthiers Forum!

"...but all attempt to avoid removing finish right to the outer perimeter of the bridge."

Right, because that way it's much easier to get a clean look at the edge of the bridge. A sharp chisel used as a scraper removes finish quickly and easily and a small rabbet on the outer bridge edge (you can quickly scrape with a new razor blade using your thumb as a depth guide) allows the bridge to sit nicely for good contact with the top.

I'd love to see your technique, Howard. Not quite sure what you mean by slicing. Are you cutting toward the score line, away from it, or parallel to it? Are you getting the chisel edge under the finish and lifting it, or paring the finish until you get down to wood?

Thanks -

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Paring, mostly cutting across the top, parallel to the long axis of the bridge, perpendicular to the grain of the top.

_________________
Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

Thanks, Howard.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

This thread has got me thinking again about the idea of using epoxy (thickened) to glue bridges on. I imagine there will be some strong opinions against that here, but I see some advantages that seem to me to make it worth serious consideration. I think I'll start a new thread to think out loud about this and see what some of you think. Tomorrow. Gotta go to sleep now.

_________________
Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Todd,

I am by no means an expert but I can imagine as there are so many to choose from that the right epoxy 'may' be OK for future removal. However nearly all I have been exposed to (we need a shuddering smiley here) have been essentially more elastic in cured form than either hide glue or PVA which are both considered more crystalline. In this area of the guitar, given so much importance is placed upon the material the bridge is made from in relation to the over all tone of an instrument, surely any form of energy sapping elasticity would be best avoided.

Back on the topic of removing lacquer for gluing the bridge, I have only used tape pre-finish and that has worked well.. But I have seen the hot chisel tip method done using an electric soldering iron and that went well. At least that method you don't need to worry about the heat at the tip being too hot or too cool, because once you have it set it is pretty fool proof.

Cheers

Kim