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Thanks for the tip. I have tried sealing with the shellac I use for French polishing, which is wax free, and that doesn't help. I do have non-dewaxed shellac, and I'll have to try that.

I don't want to doubt the good people at Zinsser, but using a non-dewaxed shellac under an oil varnish (and possibly other finishes) may be asking for trouble. I'd be afraid the small wax content may prevent good adhesion.

I use the regular (non-dewaxed) zinsser shellac for most trim work when doing carpentry, it's great to seal pine knots and all, but it doesn't dry as hard as a good dewaxed shellac IME. And to my eye it is not as clear either.

Obviously I wouldn't spray the non-dewaxed shellac, it will clog the gun in no time…

Macassar ebony never presented a problem with Rockhard for me. As a matter of fact I am finishing a guitar with Macassar trim where I didn't use a sealer before applying the oil varnish, and it dried just fine.

The only woods that create a problem for me are cocobolo, EIR and generally oily rosewoods. I seal them with de-waxed shellac after wiping with naphtha, and it seems to work just fine. Another solution is to seal with a 1:1 varnish/reducer mix (Rockhard/turpentine for me), it takes longer to dry, but eventually does. The sealer coat should be a little more than a mist.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

I use one thinned coat of zinsser shellac, non de waxed, and then 2 coats of de waxed shellac over it on oily woods. The allows the wax to seal the oily wood, but the de waxed shellac put a barrier between the wax and the finish. I may be wasting time, but I've got time.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/