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I get them close with a jointer. Then I put them between 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood clamped to my bench and use a 24" level with 120 grit adhesive sandpaper on the edge of the level.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Thanks Pat. That makes sense.

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Aoibeann

Very nice, and well worth the wait, I'm sure!

I've been using a jointer. The most important element in getting a jointer to provide good results is practice. Then more practice.

If I ever feel the need to make a shooting board, its going to look a lot like this one.

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Expectation is the source of all misery; comparison the thief of joy.
http://redrivercanoe.ca/

Looks good Chris I like the use of the aluminum channel to adjust for your back stop.
Link

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Link, there's no Aluminum in it unless you are talking about the T track. Here's some add-ons I did today
A spring loaded cam clamp. And a grove cut in the hook so I can hang it on the wall off of a cleat.

I was talking about the track.
L.

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Cut to size.....Beat to fit.....Paint to match.

Chris that is way too cool, i thought you would be back here in record time with some awesome thing to post, you don't disappoint!

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

Someone on another forum ask about the construction of the cam. I made the cam using a barrel nut like I use in the adjustable neck for the pivot and capped the outside with walnut dowel plugs to keep the side movement down. here's a close up of it. and I changed the wing nuts to wood knobs like on my centerline finder. And hung it on the wall. I think the wood knobs make it look a little more craftsmans like. It's my new shop wall hanging.

Very Cool Chris. I may be working on some sort of shooting board this weekend if I can get around to it.

Nice job. And timely post.

John

Nice one Chris .. I was going to say that without a lock down of some type, you may run into tops that wont register properly against your backing fence ... for instance, I have red and italian tops that have the edge grain angle as the outside edge .. one piece is slightly narrower than the other, so there is no way to align them on the back edge .. they ahve to be clamped somehow. my shooting board is a simple piece of mdf with a lockdown clamp similar to yours, mine uses 1/4-20 inserts and a couple screws ...

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Thanks Tony,
Sounds like something simular to the Cumpiano Board. I've been trying to figure out where I saw the cam clamp idea before. It was either on some machine I worked with before or maybe even a WorkMate bench or maybe just exposure to jigs and tooling over time. Someone mentioned the time to remove clamps and that got me to thinking. At first I thought about using quick action toggle clamps and then looked at my cam clamp and thought about how simple of an idea that was and quick. And I like that vintage old time woodworking thing . It might sound silly but I like it when a jig comes out looking good as well as doing the job. It takes just as long to make a crapy looking tool as it does a good looking tool. Well maybe a little longer for the good looking one because I always like to soften all my edges and corners from burrs and who knows. It might save a ding on something. Although I have soften the edges on this too after the first pictures were posted.

Man what a difference a flat/ level sole and a razor sharp blade in a #5 Sweetheart Stanley and a nice board makes. Did a set of Red Spruce plates in about a minute with hardly any wood taken off. Sweet.