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Dave Rickard
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 4:48 pm 
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It’s my understanding that slotting the bridge and using solid pins is a best practice.
If I’m wrong let me know.
Seems years ago someone did a nice write up about the advantages of using un slotted bridge pins.
It made sense to me at the time.
But I can’t find it, probably because I’m not searching for it correctly.
Do any of y’all know how I can find that discussion?

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doncaparker
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 5:44 pm 
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I don't know where the discussion is (there are probably several of them), but the idea is that, if you slot the pin, and don't slot the bridge, that allows the ball to ride up into the hole over time and cause more damage. If you slot the bridge, but not the pin, that keeps the ball pressing against the bridge plate, not in the hole. Less opportunity for damage. It makes sense to me. I use unslotted pins. If none are handy, I turn the slot around and make it face the tail of the guitar. I always create a slot for the string in the bridge.


These users thanked the author doncaparker for the post: Bryan Bear (Thu Aug 13, 2026 8:36 am)
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Glen H
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 6:33 pm 
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IIRC, I saw a video of Richard Hoover, Santa Cruz Guitars, espousing that slotted pins were better. Something about contact with the string throughout the length of the pin, wedged against the bridge. Fuller contact, thus better. The video was not on Facebook, so I think he’s probably right.
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bobgramann
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 9:55 pm 
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Sorry, I’m in the unslotted camp. I hate repairing worn bridgeplates. I slot the bridge and use unslotted pins. The problem with turning the slotted pin around is that the customer eventually forgets and uses the slotted pin inappropriately and eventually damages the bridgeplate. I’ve had a couple of my owners lose a pin and replace it with a slotted one. I’ve tried to educate every one, but not every one remembers.

I’m currently working up a system to make my own unslotted pins for when my current supply runs out. (I made a big order when Gurian was still making them).

The only argument that I know of for the slotted pin is that it’s quicker at the factory. I’m not about quick. I’m about quality. I slot the bridge.
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meddlingfool
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 10:40 pm 
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I believe Gurian was bought out by Allied and that you’ll likely be able to order your pins again at some point, if you don’t feel like making your own…
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dofthesea
PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2026 10:51 pm 
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Except that that A-holes at Allied have tripled the prices of purflings and trims so I would imagine they will do the same with other products. Can you tell I don't like them?lol

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meddlingfool
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 1:46 am 
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You ok bro? You seem to be consistently emanating dark vibes…
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dofthesea
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 8:13 am 
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It's all good Ed, I've been burned by Allied a bunch with materials purchase. Sorry about being a Debbie downer lo,

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These users thanked the author dofthesea for the post: meddlingfool (Thu Aug 13, 2026 2:52 pm)
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Terence Kennedy
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 9:05 am 
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Allied bought out Walter Lipton/Euphonon who was my main wood supplier for years. Prices skyrocketed for his stuff.

I am in the unslotted camp.

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SteveSmith
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 9:56 am 
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Unslotted pins here too unless you like changing out bridge plates.

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Alan Carruth
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 10:11 am 
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Glenn H wrote:
" Fuller contact, thus better. "

That assumes that the pin conducts sound from the string to the bridge and top. For that to happen there has to be some 'sound' (signal) in the string behind the saddle. The 'job' of the bridge and saddle is to tell the string how long it is so that it will make the correct note. If the string doesn't stop vibrating at the saddle you have a problem.

So far as I can tell, there are two ways the pin can affect the sound:
1) by changing the mass of the bridge, and
2) by vibrating in the hole because it's loose. That's noise, and maybe damping, not a transmitted signal.


These users thanked the author Alan Carruth for the post (total 2): Durero (Thu Aug 13, 2026 2:02 pm) • Bryan Bear (Thu Aug 13, 2026 1:26 pm)
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doncaparker
PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2026 11:50 am 
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I will say this about the Allied folks: Regardless of their intent or character, or anything personal about them (not getting into any of that, either way), I often have the impression that they are pricing their items for people who have a lot more money than I have. My constant reaction to their prices: C'mon, guys; not every sliver of wood in your storehouse deserves premium pricing. So, I don't spend a lot of money with them. I've spent some, when it has made sense. It has not made sense for some time. Just my own economic decisions.
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Kbore
PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2026 6:07 pm 
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Slotted bridge, slotted pins turned around.

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Colin North
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2026 7:36 am 
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Idf5 degree pins are acceptable, try these for unslotted - https://www.vansonguitars.com/collections/bridge-pins/products/6-x-vanson-high-quality-ebony-bridge-pins-for-acoustic-guitars-string-pegs-plain
For 3 degrees unslotted , I can only find bone ones from China, bought a bunch and they seem good quality.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: SteveSmith (Sat Aug 15, 2026 8:30 am)
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SteveSmith
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2026 8:55 am 
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I’ve been using the unslotted Waverly 5 degree bone pins for some years now. They work well and are good quality. They are expensive but so are the tuners I use.

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These users thanked the author SteveSmith for the post: Colin North (Sat Aug 15, 2026 10:17 am)
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Colin North
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2026 10:23 am 
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The ones I got from China are 5 sets for $40 and TBH, there's nothing I can criticise about them.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266791610776
Same $$ as one set of the SM ones.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: SteveSmith (Sat Aug 15, 2026 11:31 am)
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SteveSmith
PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2026 11:31 am 
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Thanks Colin, I ordered some, I'll try them out.

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SteveSmith
PostPosted: Thu Aug 27, 2026 11:51 am 
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So I ended up ordering 5 sets of unslotted pins in natural bone with abalone dots for $12/set. These are 3 degrees which I prefer. I measured 15 pins and they were +/- 0.002" on both the big and small ends. I ordered them from the Natural Music Shop from Ebay.UK. Took a few weeks to arrive but I'm very happy with them
Thanks Colin!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/naturalmusicshop?_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211

Image

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Colin North
PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2026 3:13 am 
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Glad that worked out for you Steve.

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The name catgut is confusing. There are two explanations for the mix up.

Catgut is an abbreviation of the word cattle gut. Gut strings are made from sheep or goat intestines, in the past even from horse, mule or donkey intestines.

Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


These users thanked the author Colin North for the post: SteveSmith (Fri Aug 28, 2026 5:47 am)
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Woodie G
PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2026 6:15 am 
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Some useful material here, although I was also unable to find Mr. John Arnold's drawings of the rationale for unslotted pins originally posted on UMGF. We were apparently younger and more innocent in 2019... unaware of the rough beast slouching towards us, to arrive in early 2020.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=52130&hilit=100

I posted too soon... the last link below has the sketches Mr. Arnold provided in his UMGF posts... dredged up from my older post file, but also found at: viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=50926&p=671287

Quote:
Rather than repeat all the arguments for unslotted pins and proper fitting, I would suggest reviewing posts on the topic in the archives here and over on the Unofficial Martin Guitar Forum. Post #32 in the linked thread by Mr. John Arnold is as good a summary of the advantages of unslotted pins as we have seen:

https://umgf.com/bridge-pins-t190111-s20.html

Post #5 of the linked thread below by Mr. Arnold is the best technical discussion of the issue we've seen, and the source of the drawings we use here in the shop as visual aids to explain the problems which arise from modern, poorly fitted, soft thermoplastic pins, constant diameter bridge pin holes, and failure of manufacturers to slot and properly ramp pinned bridges.

https://umgf.com/bridge-pin-damage-t881.html

Slotted pins on a new guitar tell me that the builder - whether factory or small shop - could not be bothered to properly complete the job. I have broken more fingernails when ramping and slotting bridges than any other common job here in the shop, but feel that my contribution to the longevity of the instrument being worked more than compensates.


These users thanked the author Woodie G for the post (total 2): Durero (Mon Aug 31, 2026 1:10 am) • SteveSmith (Sat Aug 29, 2026 8:07 am)
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