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I'm starting to gear up for a fun winter project building a trio of electrics. A tele, strat and LP style series.

Electrics will be totally new to me. I'm pretty well set with drawings and templates for the tele and strat but not so much on the LP.

I have a lot of nice figured maple for the carved drop top for the LP but I'm having trouble finding info on how thick the maple top should be when glued to the body wood. It will be figured maple over either hog, ash or Spanish cedar. Knowing top thickness will help me select the wood to use. Minimum thickness would be great.

With a carved top should I order standard or long shaft pots?

Any recommendations for a good set of LP plans would be welcome.

Thanks!

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

IIRC 5/8" is the minimum thickness at glue up to the body, 3/4" would be the desired thickness if possible...e.g. if you have some exceptional wood but can only garner 5/8" after joining and sanding then it could be done

Thanks a lot Mike -

You hit the nail on the head. Picked up a nice piece of maple a full 2x9x24 S4S. Never seen quite as nice/unusual piece of acer saccharum. Was hoping I might squeeze to LP tops out of it. Looking around I saw some advertised at as little as 1/2" thick but it didn't look very comfortable and considering saw kerfs and planing in my billet, I'd be lucky to get that. I wondered about cutting a couple wedges (like violin tops) to make the thickness stretch a little.

After your confirmation I'll play it safe. I should still be able to get a carve top for an LP and a drop top for a tele. It won't be wasted!

Here's my dilemma -

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Technically, a Les Paul is not a droptop because it is applied to a flat surface. Drop top implies a compound surface with a downward moving edge. BUT - carry on.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

Thanks Chris

Being new to the electric world I have plenty of nomenclature to learn, among other things. After these three I hope I'll start to get things sorted out.

So, a separate top on a LP would be a "carved top", unless it's veneer.

A top on a strat a "drop top" due to it "dropping" over the armrest?

And a top on a tele would be "?????", because it is flat?

Actually been wondering about this.

Words were never my strong point.

While I got you here, any recommendation on length of pot shafts on a carved top LP? Long or standard?

Thanks

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

On a Tele it would be a lam top.
You got the rest!

As far as pots, it might seem trite - but I go with pots that fit. There are no hard and fast rules - get measurements, on top of the instrument and inside the control cavity - then decide.

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"Act your age, not your shoe size" - Prince

IIRC, the original Les Pauls were solid mahogany (although the top was carved) the maple lamination was added to give more sustain.

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Rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy

I have built two carved top solid body set neck electric guitars, inspired by Gibson Les Paul, I used the 59 Flame Top plans that StewMac used to sell (my understanding is that Gibson made them pull the plans off the market. The plans call for 5/8 thick maple cap for the usual LP geometry (4.4 degree neck angle, standard ToM bridge). This works very nicely with1/4 inch binding to give 3/8 dome.

There is nothing that says you HAVE to make the top that thick, my second LP clone had a 3/8 thick top and the binding covers half the seam making the dome about 1/4 inch. I mearly adjusted the neck angle accordingly, it still uses a ToM bridge. Here are the two guitars,



The thick one



and the thinner one




There are a couple of different carving patterns available on the internet (one which will not work as posted) that more or less give you contour lines, I did not use them. My drawing had a couple of cross sections, I made templates from them and just free hand carved the curves and recurves.

I used long shaft pots on both of mine, the thickness of your top and the way your route your control cavity will dictate the shafts lengths but remember you can always put lock nuts behind the pot to adjust the length of the shaft.

Something else to consider is that lesters are very heavy, my first onew weighs 9 pounds 3 oz. I did a mild chambering of the second and brought the weight down to 7 pounds 10 oz which is very noticeable.

I've got lots of pictures of both but they are hard to add to a thread here (I have to resize them)

To the last post I will add that I have built a tele clone with a 1/4 inch drop top. It is also chambered and weigh 5-3/4 pounds. Everyone who plays it comments on the weight (or lack thereof).

Thanks Freeman

You covered a lot of ground for me! All things I was mulling over including some level of chambering for weight. Saved me asking a bunch more questions.

Great looking guitars too!

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED

Here is the chambering and thinner top on the second lester, fairly consevative



One thing that is kind of interesting is that is that both guitars have the same pickups and electronics, one is maple cap the other Spanish cedar (but both woods have similar engineering properties). Basically the guitar are twins with exception of the chambering (and tops). We have played them side by side thru the same amp, same settings, same pick, yadda yadda, and there is a very subtle difference. I don't hear it when I play just one guitar but back to back its there. I think the chamber adds a tiny bit of resonance, I have been intending to take audio spectrums of them both and comparing. Just haven't got around to it.


Good luck with your builds, if you need more help I recommend TDPRI.com

Thanks again Freeman

Good stuff. Especially the similarity over pretty radical changes.

I'm sure I'll take the back road to the LP. I don't confine well either.

So eyes open to ideas or experiences with this.

I think there is a lot more leeway in building than many want to admit, so lots of room for variation - subtle or radical.

But you take your chances.

BR

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
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Brian, being an acoustic builder you will have a better understanding of geometry than most people "building" electric guitars. You have a lot more adjustability in electric bridges but you still need to be within that range of adjustment. A couple of things I always recommend

- Get Melvyn Hiscock's book. He literally covers every aspect of electric guitar building

- Get the free Terry Downs telecaster plans (there is a link in as sticky at TDPRI). Telecasters are assembly line guitars, if you build the parts correctly they simply bolt together and work.

- Build the tele before the lester. You'll understand why...

- Feel free to ping me if you have any questions. I've done several build threads and have lots of photos

Thanks again. When you mentioned the Hiscock book, I looked and it was on the shelf with a bookmark about 1/3 the way thru from a few years ago. Guess I have some page turning to do.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

Doing the tele first for sure and feeling pretty confident on that one and the strat.

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Brian R, Wood Mechanic
N8ZED