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 Post subject: pick guard bubbles....
PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 12:48 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Fri Sep 19, 2008 11:36 pm
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First name: Jeff
Last Name: Hewitt
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37312
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I need some info on the best way to apply a clear pickguard without bubbles being trapped in it in various spots....I know if there are a few bubbles they will disappear after some time....but I would like some help in getting the best application...

Thanks,
Jeff


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 1:41 pm 
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
I just did one that came out fine but it could be better so I'm interested too.

Jeff, did you figure out a way to smooth the edges, mine were just a bit rough even though I cut it with and Xacto knife?

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Wet the top with a spritz of water from a spray bottle. Not a pool of water, but a good spritz--you'll figure out how much, and it's not all that critical. Then start on one edge (I set the two points first, so I'm always starting from the soundhole side) and roll it down to the other edge. The water fills gaps that would otherwise become air bubbles. The adhesive will stick despite the wetness, and in a couple of days the water will have evaporated out.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 2:13 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Powell River BC Canada
First name: Daniel
Last Name: Minard
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Clear pickguards can be a bear to cut & install. Every flaw shows!
To eliminate bubbles, lightly spray the top & the pickguard with water or water with a little bit of dish soap mixed in.
You can slide the guard around a little (not much, before it sticks) to get it positioned & then gently squeegie from the centre outwards to the edges to remove as much trapped water as you can. This is recommended in the instructions I got & doesn't seem to affect the bond.
If you touch the sticky side with a finger before you spray it, you will leave an indelible fingerprint in the adhesive.
I stick an edge of the guard to the tip of a clean exacto knife to place it in position.
To cut the soundhole arc cleanly, I use a sharpened pair of dividers set to the radius I want & score repeatedly until I go through. (Tape the guard securely to a piece of scrap when you do this) The outside curves are easier & very sharp scissors work well. Scrape the rough edges with a razor blade. I feather the edges a bit while I'm at it... Helps to prevent the edges from lifting & gives it a smoother appearance.
The biggest problem I have these days, is keeping tiny dust particles out. A little dust makes a noticeable lump in the finished product.
That's how I do it... Hope this helps.
Edit... I see Howard posted while I was writing... What he said!


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 7:02 pm 
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Cocobolo
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First name: Jeff
Last Name: Hewitt
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37312
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Thanks for the info....It worked out alot better than doing it dry.
Also the divider trick work real well too.

Thanks,
Jeff


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:00 pm 
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
Good info - glad you asked the question Jeff [:Y:]

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