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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 10:07 pm 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2008 1:12 pm
Posts: 466
Location: Plainfield, IL (chicago)
I just need to finish carving the top of #2 so I can assemble this guitar. I chose a nice piece of duglas fur and glued it together for the top. Perfect quarter sawn slats. I am having a hell of a time keeping it from cracking. Top side carved with minimal troubles. Once I carved the inside were the top is now .200-.250 in thickness, it splits easy with mininal presure. It seem to crack between the dark lines of the grain. I have been able to repair/glue the cracks to keep them from getting worse, but I am wondering how the heck others can use quartersawn wood for the carved tops. Even trying to cut the f-holes have been tricky. The saw wants to follow between the grain lines and not accross them. I even split the top near the f hole too. I am starting to have doubts about this top. BTW: This absolutely the opposite thing I found true years ago with a violin top made of Douglas fur. That top was so darn hard to carve, it never was completed. This one seemed very soft. I had troubles with tear-out and it carve pretty easy. Now I am having issues with splits.

Thoughts?

JD

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:33 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:02 am
Posts: 3272
Location: The Woodlands, Texas
First name: Barry
Last Name: Daniels
Sounds like a bad piece of wood. Where did you get it from? Can you post a photo of it?


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:42 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:40 am
Posts: 600
Location: United States
Douglas fir does not act that way at all. You probably have a piece with ring checking...a growth defect in which growth rings separate in the living tree. Not common in Doug fir, but very common in other species like Pacific yew. This type defect us usually visible on end grain in the log, but can go hidden until it's processed. Just a thought.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:41 am 
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Koa
Koa
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Joined: Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:49 pm
Posts: 1209
Location: Ukiah, CA
JD,
An old US Forest Service pamphlet I once had described douglas fir as "splits easily, holds nails well." I always thought that was funny, but not in your case. I'm sure a spruce top would have more resistance to splitting.

Ken

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:33 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:40 am
Posts: 600
Location: United States
Ken Franklin wrote:
JD,
An old US Forest Service pamphlet I once had described douglas fir as "splits easily, holds nails well." I always thought that was funny, but not in your case. I'm sure a spruce top would have more resistance to splitting.

Ken


What the USFS means by "splits easily" is by ax or froe...not cracks in use. I think the current term is "clean" splitting to avoid confusion as to interpretation. Couple centuries of use as construction, flooring, panels says a lot. On the other hand, difficult splitting woods are like elm, etc. Doug fir has good history as DB tops alternate wood and often used as steel string soundboards....great tonewood.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:45 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2005 7:50 am
Posts: 3152
Location: Canada
Still,

D.Fir does have a propensity to split. I have used it a lot in furniture, I love how it ages a golden colour over time. But I do agree with Barry, some pieces of wood will work better than others in this regard. When carving an archtop you expose shorter fibres and the fibre in D.Fir is not as long or as tenacious as Spruce fiber so you just need to be sure that you keep your work well supported at times while carving and applying pressure to it. It probably works better in flat tops because it is flat...

Shane

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