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My approach to making the saddle slot on the bridge has been quite crude and lookng to improve. I use a Martin bridge as a template and stick the Martin bridge on top of the blank. Then I drill a pilot hole through the Martin Bridge into the blank at each end of the saddle slot. I remove the template bridge and the make up a simple temporary jig that allows me to connect the two pilot holes for alignment with dremel and stew mac base and route the slot.

This all works ok for me but I dont get the intonation as good as I would like so now considering the following process and as an alternate to buying the $145 slotting jig from stewmac. Here are the anticipated steps:

1. Rough cut bridge blank and taper ends to spec
2. Drill bridge pin holes by taping the Martin bridge to the blank for spacing
3. Shape the bridge and radius
4. Install bridge using stew mac fasterners
5. Install strings using Stew Max Intonnator to substitute for saddle
6. Set intonation with Intonnator (which I already have but never used)
7. Remove bridge and slot to intonator markings

I was considering the purchase of the Stew Mac slotting jig which would allow me to glue up the bridge and then working from a more stable condition, route the saddle slot. I realize this would eliminate a couple of steps and possible result in a more accurate intonation vs. removing the bridge and then gluing up.

So two questios here:

1. Is anyone using the Stew Mac slotting jig and are you happy with it.
2. How are other handling this task

Thanks in advance for all your help.

I just glued up a jig out of 1/2" birch ply that is similar to theirs I think. My dremels plastic cheapo base I got from Lowe's fits snugly from one end to the other. I actually set it in there during the glue up to make sure everything fitted well. I glued small squares of cork to the bottom and just clamp it with cam clamps to the top after the bridge is on, set a couple of stops, and off we go. I use a 3/32" downcut bit and make several passes to get'er done. I also elevated the front edge of the guide with a narrow strip of ebony scrap in order to give me a few degrees (probably 2 degrees or so) back set on the saddle to combat forces of the strings pulling it forward. I wish I had a picture of it but don't. I'm sure someone on here has something similar that will save you about $140. I've used it on at least a dozen guitars, some of which were Martin repairs where I plugged saddle holes and rerouted to improve intonation, etc.

hope this helps.

SR

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"We might not be big but we sure are slow"

One more thing, and this may not be for everyone but it works for me: I use a 36" ruler with metric on one side, measure from the nut to top of twelfth fret, double that and add 2mm for the high E and 5.5 mm for the low E. I other words if the 12th is at 322mm I double to 644mm and make the scale length to high E 646 mm (to the front edge of the saddle) and 649.5mm (front edge also) on the low E. Ideally to get things dead perfect a 1/8" sadde or wider may work better for you. I'm striving for the vintage look most of the time hence the 3/32" saddle and still have to shave back at the B string and some on the low E and A and sometimes a little on the D. All this is for guitars with med/low action and medium guage strings.

Good luck.

SR

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"We might not be big but we sure are slow"

Thanks SR for the detailed approach. Thinking I might make a jig as you have described.

Todd, where did you get the bridge mill? Did you make this?

I gotta get me one of these!!
david

Here's mine an adaptation from Coach Tony Karol posted earlier this year.

It's rather simple, there's a stop for the bridge, the wedge holds it in place and the router has two stops to cut the 2" saddle slot and one edge to determine the slope of the slot.

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Rich my friend I use the Stew-Mac bridge slotting jig with one of those wimpy, under powered stinkin Dremel tools and it works great for me. I just take may time, shallow passes and am mindful to not use this Dremel for cutting off a muffler and the bearings stay nice and tight.

An advantage of this jig is that it can be used to slot the bridge on the guitar, the pic shows a bridge being slotted bolted to the bench.

Here is a slotting jig that costs nothing more than some scraps, hot melt glue and some dexterity.

If you're going to slot prior to gluing to the guitar, a normal router table works fine. I use the lee valley small parts holder which I had for other reasons, no jig needed, just set the angle and go.

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David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."

Thanks to all of you for your response and your ideas. Hesh, sounds like you are pretty happy with the stew mac jig and I think that is the direction I am leaning toward. Looks like a good middle of the road approach. I am not patient enough to build any elaborate jigs and the little time I have would rather be focused on making the guitar vs. making the jig.

Are any of you using the Stew Mac Intonator to mark the saddle slot ? I bought this one some time ago on ebay and have not used it to date but the design makes sense I suppose.